Hi,

I am new to The Expansion Project, but hopefully soon a big fan. Only got experience from, maybe, five AdvCiv gaming sessions. Now to my question:

* How do you print/create your tradingcards?
* How do you print/create your map sections?
* How do you print/create ...? (the rest)

I found the following on the web, but didn't understand how to order the blank game cards: http://www.plaincards.com/Playing.html

Regards,
Jonas Jacobsson
Sweden

I am using plaincards also. What is your specific question? The only thing I am still debating the the color of the backs of the cards for the East/West/Split scenarios.

Craig

Maps:
I barter my map with someone who has a wide-format printer. They've got a smooth vinyl that lays down flat quite easily. What I end up with, is a full sized map that unrolls with little effort, and it's smooth.

Now, the inks used I've found are important - they use a "light solvent" ink, so the ink actually soaks into the vinyl. Normal inkjet wide format printer ink, lays on the surface. Sharp surfaces (like paper) have a tendancy to eventually chip or scratch those if the surface isn't coated or laminated.

I also usually get a trimmed version, as I rarely play with all 18 players . It's basically the map, printed landscape chopping off either the west edge or east edge to fit the width of the printer they use (which gets me a map of about 38" by 50").

I took the images, and printed a series of backs on cardstock on a color laser, then flipped them back over and printed the front images.

Then took an cutting board and cut the cards apart.

The trick I found was that the laser printer I had, had some registration differences when I flipped the paper, so I figured out much to adjust the back (fractions of an inch on both X & Y), and then printed out the backs.

They aren't perfect, but it works for me. Another trick I had to do was to make sure I had an opaque enough cardstock so the front images didn't show through during trading - the printed backs helped quite a bit.

This "plaincards.com" looks extremely interesting, though!

Counters:

I've experimented and am continuing to experiment with counters.

First off, I'm still using the original 9 sets of counters from Civ, as as I've had multiple copies, sometimes to play Imperial, I've got double sets of those.

I have experimented with taking the counters, color laser printing them on card stock and then having them hot-laminated with a heavy lamination. Hard to cut, and some of the colors seem to not stick well long term (Nubia, Persia). I've been cutting those with an exacto knife and a straight edge. Slow, laborious.

Another experiment was printing the front on one sheet of card stock, the back on another. Gluing the front to a third sheet, letting that dry. Then gluing the back sheet on, letting that dry, before cutting them all apart. (There was some cutting in the middle to the outside square so I could line them up well.) I'm not happy with the glue I'm using - while non-toxic and quite clear, it's hard to get solid coverage, so I've been regluing when counters fall apart in play.

My latest experiment is to print on paper, then glue to a matte board (the type using for matte'ing art prints to be framed.) I started with a plain white one so the color wouldn't interfere with the colors. Basically following the above set, but instead of 3 sheets of cardstock, 2 sheets of normal paper and matte board. Seems to be extremely good counters, but a lot of work, and I'm having problems getting good vertical cuts with the exacto knife. I've tried simple scissors, and it's better than what I got with the exacto knife, which isn't saying much.

Next experiment is a specialized matte cutter, which should get me perfectly vertical cuts, with one stroke. And my signicant other can use it for what matte board is actually intended for

Are you using their program for printing also?

You people that doesn't use printing paper from Plaincards,
how do you create your cards?

How do people create their game boards?

Hi

I am relatively Computer illiterate and have a cheap HP Bubble Jet printer - but this is how I made a copy of the game.

TOKENS

My method for making the tokens are explained elsewhere. The link is http://67.66.187.69/civproject/forum/to ... rchTerms=a

If this link doesn't work, it is included in the topic "Counter: Fabrication" posted by Grendel - "A technique for to making Counters"

CARDS

With the cards I downloaded the backs and printed them on A4 sheets of card acquired from the neighbouring Arts and Hobby shop. Then the fronts were printed. Due to my cheap bubble printer - about 1 in 7 attempts failed to match up properly - and had to be reprinted. Spare cards were also printed.

On the advice from the Arts and Hobby shop both surfaces were sprayed with a gloss spray (which didn't gloss) but protects the cards from grease etc.

After this a paper trimmer was used and the Trade cards and Civilization Advance cards were carefully cut out.

MAP

With the map, using Microsoft Paint, the map was modified - then adjusted using change attributes and stretch/skew to alter the size of the map so it would fit on our table (- which is 2 metres by 1 metre.)

The map was then printed it on A4 paper. After carefully joining the map together from the back using sticky tape, the map was then cut into areas slightly smaller than A3 size.

Using a laminater, I now have a map of A3 laminated sheets. When we play the required number of sheets required are blue-tacked onto the table.

My son has always wanted to play with the whole map and on this past weekend we played the whole map with 8 players with double empires - 110 tokens, 8 ships, 18 cities - and double damage for each calamity. Surprisingly it played and worked really well. But that is another story.

Hi

I found using the adhesive glue which is sold in an aerosol can brilliant for the above. It can be sprayed evenly on all surfaces to get good coverage and works well.

Thanks for the tips Trade2bay!

I've just made cards, counters and map. I printed the cards, front and back, using a laser printer (fringe benny at work). Used the spray glue, which worked well (Elmers, it's like a contact cement, $5 at the local Walmart).

I used file folders for a backing, and glued the front and back to the backing. A good paper cutter is a must. For counters I bought matte board at Hobby Lobby, it's like a giant sheet of cardboard. To cut out City counters, used an arc punch (1-1/8" dia.) These are available at industrial tool suppliers (used to punch out bolt holes in large pipe gasket).

For the trade cards, to make more durable and hide minor imperfections, I put the cards into clear card protectors (like those used for collectable card games). These are also available cheap at Hobby Lobby.

The map I also printed the map (16 sheets 8.5x11 per section) on a lazer and spray glued to matte cardboard sheets (32"x40", $5 ea at H.L.).

All on all not too difficult, but plan on taking two weekends of work to do.

Rematog

Rematog

I just used some good scissors and cut out the round cities. Not fun or perfect but it worked (I'll look for a punch here eventually).

For the trade cards I used magic card sleeves and bought a bunch of poker cards for the backing. This lets me just cut out the cards from paper printer and slide it in. It's probably the most expensive solution but it works great and is easy.

Of course I have some custom commmodity cards in poker-sized format. If there is any interest I can add them as an optinoal download link.

I have been using all the resouces from this site and the cards to make my own copy of the Advance project. I am using heavy cardstock from Staples. And I have a roll of laminate for the map board and player mats.
For the Advances I have used Adobe to open and then use fit to page for the print and then reverse the page and do the same for the back side and have had no problems. I have used the tokens the same way but to get the back to come out the same I have had to change the left position for the back to be 3.29 and then it comes out perfect on each side.
There were only three token sheets that were not sized tight so make sure you print is on a width of 4.94 and a heigth of 6.71.

The trade cards were done the same as the advances by using fit to page for front and back. Make sure that only fit to page is checked if using adobe and not allow distortion.

I printed the map on the same card stock in adobe which did a great job of cutting the pages up for reassembly and lamination. The laminate rolls from Staples are around 8 dollars for 25 feet which is cheaper than buying already cut sheets.
I use a Fiskars slide cutter for cutting the cards, mats, commodities from the paper and these can be obtained from any store that sells scrapbooking supplies. It gives a perfect straight edge cut.